How To: 5 speed swap

[2dr_sentra]

Everything that is needed

-B14 transaxle 95-99 (98's and 99's dont have LSD)
-brake pedal
-clutch pedal and cable
-all shifter linkage
-Shifter holder (underside of car)
-all motor mount brackets and all hardware
-M/T crossmember
-All motor mounts (passenger mount is the same)
-Automatic or manual ECU (auto WILL have CEL)
-Both driver and passenger side axles
-Flywheel/bolts
-Clutch kit

Clutch Pedal installment

http://www.sr20nation.com/showthread.php?t=31

-To remove the auto shifter-

you have to drop the cat converter to gain access to the 2 screws under the car, take the shifter off etc. unlike the manual the automatic shifter comes out from inside the car ( 2 screws inside 10mm and 2 under 12mm)

-Removing the automatic tranny-

First drain all fluid, then start removing both axles, unplug all connectors/sensors put a floor jack under it to support it, then start removing the bolts that hold it to the motor there are 2 different sizes 14mm and 17mm. then once you've removed all bolts, slide the tranny out from the driver side, slowly use a pry bar to help move the tranny off the motor... it should come out with a little ease






Heres OL' SLOPPY!!!



-Clutch/Flywheel-

I just use a new oem clutch seeing that it was free
But you'll need the Flywheel bolts the automatic has a flexplate, only difference with the bolts it the automatics are shorter make sure you have all 8 bolts... One problem i ran into is the torque convertor has its own bushing in the crank, thus you cant use a pilot bearing, and you might have to use a few different clutch aglinment tools to find one that fits just right, luckly i had one that was just the right size.. then just put the flywheel one torque it to specs! then agline the clutch nothing major.

Flywheels bolt- to torque them down have someone hold the crank pulley with a wrench as you torque the bolts.



To install M/T shift linkage

After you have the tranny and everything bolted up (be sure to put linkage in before the crossmember) just connect the one end to the rear motor mount bracket and the other to the tranny and use your shifter bracket.

*NOTE* SE linkage is the same as SE-R



Bolt up linkage to Transaxle -



finished Interior-



Axles

Yes, they're different the carrier bracket is the same... just swap out both axles.

Motor Mounts

The Passenger is the same mount either AT/MT doesnt matter, rear is different also the rear motor mount bracket is different also the shift support rod bolts to it. Driver side tranny mount is a little "Beefed" up with the manual so that needs to be changed also, last but not least the front motor mount/Dog bone which ever.

A/T cooling lines

There are TWO cooling lines running from the radiator that run to the A/T you can either-

A) Cap them off
B) Run a single hose from one end to the other to just recirculate the coolent ( I did this )
C) Buy a manual radiator

Crossmember

The crossmember is a little different from the automatic to the manual, Mainly cause of the Front motor mount.

How i got it to start.

As of Thursday night i had the car running and its been running since then, we tricked the computer (still using a/t ecu) to think the car is still in "P"
we did this by taking the shift inhibitor off the automatic transmission located here-



Then after removing the inhibitor you must place the switch into the "P" location, and secure it with either zip tie, black tape, or both-



Then just plug in the connector for the shift inhibitor and fire it up!

You must remove some peices off the automatic shifter to make this work also there is a switch for when the shifter is put into "P" you must do the same thing with that.



This only for now, till we figure out where the neutral safety is located on the automatic and find a way to splice that into the manual one...

Crank postion sensor

One MAJOR problem I ran into again, is the Crank postion sensor, the plug coming from the automatic wiring harness did not reach far enough to plug into the new manual one, so you can either cut the plug off and just crimp some added wiring and make it longer or get the manual one and tap into your automatic wiring and leave the automatic plug hang there, thus just making it longer while still having the auto plug in tact.

Wiring

-The speedo sensor- is the same at a/t and m/t and it just plugs right in no special attention need there

-Neutral Safety- I have not wired this up yet, but you can see above how i got around it.

-Crank postion sensor- Shown above.

-Reverse lights- ( got from Wes 98 200sx ser) You have to splice the reverse sensor wires into the inhibitor harness connector. There are two wires. One is ground and the other supplies ground only when the car is in reverse. The ground is yellow and the signal wire is green/white. Like above, I recommend you doublecheck those wire colors.

Another Great write up Click here for Wes 98 200sx ser's 5spd swap write up

I want to thank Wes 98 200sx ser for all his help with this swap and to everyone else who made it possible.

[Dabrits]

I'll be using this sometime. Hopefully sooner rather than later.

[2dr_sentra]

let me know how it goes over man