So I looked on ebay, and they're only selling a set of 4, for $600

Guess I'll have to wait around then

I love flying down dirt roads in my car. There are some good ones in the Ocala National forest here in sunny Florida. Stick to the gravel if you go back there though because it gets really sandy really quick. Every once in a while when Im on a drive I'll spot a gravel/unpaved road and then I revert back to a 6 year old and pretend Im in a special stage or something. haha

^ Winter break, we need to meet up and do that.

Drogahnus wrote:So I looked on ebay, and they're only selling a set of 4, for $600

Guess I'll have to wait around then

The front AGX's are only $79 each. The rears are much more than that. I only bought fronts, in my view they are the most important and also my rear struts are fine.

Yeah, one of my front ones keeps making a knocking sound when I start to brake so I'll have to replace them soon. I'm assuming an alignment is due with the new AGX's?

Drogahnus wrote:Yeah, one of my front ones keeps making a knocking sound when I start to brake so I'll have to replace them soon. I'm assuming an alignment is due with the new AGX's?

Yes, I always check it after installing struts. If the camber needs to be tweaked a bit, just oval out the upper [of the two base mounting holes] out a bit with a die grinder and dial in the camber you want.

Mike

Drogahnus wrote:^ Winter break, we need to meet up and do that.

sounds like a good daytrip to me. let me know if/when you can do it. It also all depends on when I have to do my clutch break-in.

Drogahnus wrote:Yeah, one of my front ones keeps making a knocking sound when I start to brake so I'll have to replace them soon. I'm assuming an alignment is due with the new AGX's?

You could get camber plates Cusco makes some or just save and get some Teins with pillow mounts.

Great News!

The Poughkeepsie Sports Car Club has picked up another site for the 2010 season. This site is the parking lot of Dutchess Stadium. It is a very smooth surface made of grounded asphalt. This site will not rut up so weather will not be a problem. Any car should be able to run here. This site, along with excellent Grieg Farm fields should make for a great series!

I'll keep this thread updated for when this year's schedule comes out.

Mike

I am prepping a cheap high mile '91 SE-R for this year's Poughkeepsie Sports Car Club [PSCC] Rallycross series. This is just for fun and I'm not going to spend a fortune on it. The first order of business of course is to get the car up to speed mechanically first. I paid $200 for it as seen here. Although this is an SR20 car, everything else applies to the GA powered cars regarding the car prep.



I've been planning this build for some time and have been saving parts for the day I got a cheap SE-R for this.

Clutch
The car needed a clutch so I ordered an Exedy disc for like $40 shipped on ebay. The cover and bearing were fine and I cleaned and reused them.

Transmission
This might start to sound like the Grassroots Motorsport $2010 Challenge event build story, but the car needed a clutch so I pulled the good five speed out and sold it for more than I paid for the car. Why sell the trans? Because this car will be a stripped out rallycross/ice race car and will be trailered to events. So because I'll never need 5th gear again, I installed an otherwise perfectly good $50 4 speed "pop out" trans I've been saving for years. I love it when a plan comes together.

Brakes: It needed front brakes and calipers. Most people here go for the ultra heavy AD22VE NX2000 setup. Not me. Those things weigh a ton! I decided to once again do my budget lightweight front brake "downgrade". I've done this before with other B13's in the past with great success. For events like ice racing where you need very little braking, and in rallycross where the duration of the runs are too short to build any heat, I ditch the SE-R setup and go not one step smaller [to standard B13 brakes], but two steps smaller to B12 sedan front brakes! The B12's were much lighter cars and used lighter solid rotors and very small calipers. They are a direct swap onto a B13. Plus you can now run 13" wheels if you so desire.


And yes, I drilled 96 holes in each of those $19 AutoZone B12 solid rotors. Tip: the B12 wagon rotors are vented, so specify the sedan rotors for the lighter, solid discs. Heck by the time I gut the car to racing weight, it will be less than what the B12's weighed anyway. The reman calpiers were also only $19 each [with the torque brackets no less] on a closeout sale through RockAuto.com.

Interior
Currently I am stripping out the interior and scraping out all of the sound deadener. I've got an aluminum Kirky lightweight racing seat from my old B11 race car [that I retired over the summer] that will go in. And that big heavy B13 steering wheel will go in favor of a smaller lightweight Momo Monte Carlo wheel that my friend Phil gave me. The $67 Momo B13 adapter to mount it, just came in from an ebay auction.

Suspension
Nothing fancy here, just a new pair of front AGX's on stock springs. Front AGX's for a B13 are very reasonably priced at just $79 each from Octaneautosupply on ebay. Get 'em while you can!

Motor Mounts
Naturally, the motor mounts were shot in this car too. What else is new right? Normally I would never put the red urethane Energy mounts in any of my street cars [they vibrate too much], but for this car, they are the perfect "cheap" upgrade for less than $60.

Tires
I bought a set of 185/65R14 Firestone Winterforce tires, a.k.a. the "poor mans rally tires" from the Tire Rack for just $49 each [discounted from $52 through our account at work]. I've also got a used set of Silverstone 505's from the old B11 rallycross car.

I'll update this thread as I go along. A skid plate is next on the list.

Mike